So, how do you get to Antarctica? It’s not as simple as booking a flight. The continent has no permanent airport, and for much of the year, it’s a frozen, dark expanse, closer to outer space than you might think. If you’re set on “going South”, your journey will almost certainly begin in one of five key gateway cities.
These cities, established long before we fully understood Antarctica, are vital due to their proximity, connections, and polar expertise. They act as hubs for the majority of Antarctic traffic. The five historic gateways are:
• Christchurch, New Zealand: Home to the US programme and other research missions, connecting directly to the Ross Sea and the Scott and McMurdo bases.
• Hobart, Tasmania: Situated under the Australian claim, it’s another key access point.
• Cape Town, South Africa: Providing access to the bottom of the Atlantic.
• Ushuaia, Argentina and Punta Arenas, Chile: Located where the sea is narrowest, these two ports offer the easiest access to Antarctica, involving a day’s sail across the Drake Passage. They are also the departure points for 99% of tourist trips.
While these five cities remain the primary gateways, with history, industry and polar expertise, they now handle only 63% of the traffic to Antarctica. As interest grows, other cities are seeing increased arrivals. In a PNAS study of port-to-port traffic to Antarctica between 2014 and 2018 there were 75 recorded last ports that were outside these gateways. Port Stanley in the Falklands and Monte Video in Uruguay are recognised as informal gateways, with similar shipping standards. Some ships are travelling from as far away as Singapore, Bristol and Malaga.
The 5 Antarctic Gateways
Christchurch, New Zealand 🇳🇿
Hobart, Australia 🇦🇺
Cape Town, South Africa 🇿🇦
Ushuaia, Argentina 🇦🇷
Punta Arenas, Chile 🇨🇱
Despite this, if you’re travelling to Antarctica as a tourist, you will most likely depart from one of the five original gateway cities. Antarctica remains remote, but the routes south and the role of these cities are constantly changing. As an internationally neutral continent governed by the Antarctic Treaty, there are no port authorities controlling the borders. This has led to issues like private adventurism, illegal whaling and biofouling and so there are suggestions to make more cities official gateways.
Key: ★ Five Gateway Cities, Christchurch, Hobart, Cape Town, Punta Arenas and Ushuaia. Source/ Shavawn Donoghue, University of Tasmania
Donald Trump was accused of making a molehill out of a mountain this week, ordering America’s tallest summit be renamed. But Mt Denali isn’t the only big mountain suffering an identity crisis as a new wave of landmarks face being renamed for political reasons.
Now climbers, adventure seekers and local authorities are asking: ‘Who gets to decide what a mountain is called?’
The move returns the official name to Mt McKinley on maps, laws and signage. Named in 1917 for president Will McKinley the mountain’s moniker was changed again to Denali in 2015 – to reflect the indigenous Alaskan name, meaning the “Big One”.
Whatever you call it, it’s a big headache for those trying to navigate the area.
On Monday the world’s most popular app for getting from A to B, Google Maps, said it would be renaming the mountain along with changing the Gulf of Mexico to the “Gulf of America.”
Similarly news agency AP said it would be following the White House’s lead, as “the area lies solely in the United States and as president, Trump has the authority to change federal geographical names within the country.”
Some saw the naming convention as a mountain they would die on.
Jon Krakauer, author of the Alaskan adventure novel Into the Wild, said he had only known it by one name.
“I intend to continue to refer to the great mountain as Denali for as long as I’m alive, and I encourage every other climber to do the same,” Krakauer wrote to Outdoor Magazine.
“Trump might be able to officially rename it, but he will never be able to force me to call it anything except Denali.”
McKinley / Denali isn’t the only high-altitude mountain to be hijacked for identity politics.
The highest peak in Wales was recently renamed to reflect local language. Mt Snowdon was renamed “Yr Wyddfa” at the end of 2022.
Pronounced “uhr with-va”, it took over as the official name for the pinnacle and the Snowdon national park was rebranded “Eyri”. Despite few visitors being able to say it.
This news came after the UK census showed that just under 540,000 people in the UK could speak Welsh. At 17 per cent of Wales or 0.7 per cent of the United Kingdom, the language is at its lowest ebb on record. The number of speakers has continued to shrink since 2001, according to the Welsh Language Commissioner. The Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa rename was described as a stand against culture loss.
Despite being a “tiddler” compared to the Denali / McKinley massif, naming mountains continues to be a big issue. From Harlech to the Himalayas, tourists are having to tread carefully around what they call their next trip.
No matter what is drawn on the map. The biggest decider of a mountain’s name will always be those climbing them.
Aoraki / Mt Cook: New Zealand’s tallest mountain has enjoyed a double-barrelled name since the Ngāi Tahu Claims Settlement Act 1998. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Who gets to name a mountain?
Contrary to popular belief, the first person to summit a mountain does not get naming rights.
The process of naming a previously unnamed mountain is surprisingly involved.
Before you set off to plant your flag on an unclaimed summit, there are a few things to take into account. Especially if there are already known names for a mountain.
Conrad Anker, arguably America’s best known big mountain climber, said he would continue to be in the “Danali” camp when it came to Alaska’s biggest peak. Though he was more philosophical about the possibility of mountains having many names.
“It was fitting to honor the people of Alaska with the rightful name,” he told Outside Magazine. “I think it’s worth noting that the vast majority of peaks in the Himalayas have local names.”
Everest for example is referred to as Sagarmatha in Nepal or Chomolungma in Tibet.
However, there’s one name that leaps to mind when you ask which is the tallest mountain in the world. Even Anker refers to it as “Everest”, when he writes about his expeditions retracing the footsteps of Mallory and Irvine.
Named for Sir George Everest, the surveyor-general of British India, Sir George never actually saw the mountain himself. It was instead a way of currying favour by members of the Royal Geographical Society. Previously the world’s tallest summit was recorded simply as Peak XV.
Thus far the RGS surveying team had simply numbered the summits, having “no name intelligible to civilised men.” In the post-colonial age, this dismissive 1850s attitude rubs many mountaineers the wrong way. However, there have been no serious attempts by either Kathmandu or Lhasa to reclaim the name of Everest.
“Everest” is still the name and the biggest draw at the centre of Nepal’s mountain tourism industry. As an internationally known landmark, there is value in knowing Sagarmatha by many names.
Given Kathmandu increased the climbing by more than a third this year, a more cynical person might say: “Pay $15,000 to climb it, you can call it what you want.”
In New Zealand the practice is to give both English and Maori names for mountains. Aoraki / Mt Cook was first officially recognised as such by the Ngāi Tahu Claims Settlement Act 1998. The South Island iwi argued that landmarks “tohu whenua” should incorporate Māori and European names following Te Tiriti Waitangi principles. It is a multicultural compromise for a country with multiple cultural viewpoints.
It might sound like a mouthful – but there’s something beautiful about the double-barred name for New Zealand’s tallest “maunga”.
Though as New Zealand’s com Treaty Principles Bill gets ready to be heard later this year, it seems that the names of places and mountains are likely to get more politicised.
From Alaska to Aotearoa / New Zealand there is an atmosphere of heightened tension about what a particular mountain should, or should not, be called. Something that seems trivial when actually amongst the mountains themselves.
At tens of millions of years old, they’re likely to still be around long after we’ve forgotten their names.
The beginners guide to naming a mountain:
Got your sights on a grand mountaineering conquest? Here’s the guide to naming “unnamed natural features” according to the US Board on Geographic Names. Before you head off in search of the next Denali, bear in mind:
Key notes
Mountains cannot be named after a living person – so you cannot name a mountain after yourself.
No derogatory or offensive names – see Big Knob Peak and other notable exceptions.
You may have to prove “local acceptance” and common use in the area of the mountain.
Names cannot be “overly long”.
No commercial or trademarked names. Mt Pepsi is not OK.
According to the USGS “a potential honoree must have been deceased for at least five years and must have had either a direct and long-term association with the feature or must have made notable civic contributions.”
Any proposed name will require consultation with local, tribal, county representatives.
Of course this is only the process for mountains located in the US. The appropriate local naming authority will depend on your peak of choosing. In cases where there is disagreement, such as the ‘Gulf of Mexico/Gulf of America’ debacle, there is a United Nations Group of Experts on Geographical Names to help resolve these differences. Don’t hold your breath.
Adventure travel is like a camel: easy to recognise, hard to define. So the story goes of a traveller’s encounter with a lumpy animal in the desert. She knows what a camel is. Her friends back home understand what she means by ‘a camel’, but try describing one and you’ll find yourself at a loose end. More to the point of our parable, was the guided desert dune safari she booked really an adventure, or imitation sold to gullible tourists?
Adventure travel is one of those things that seems obvious until questioned. Bungy jumping in Queenstown, sounds adventurous. Cycle-packing the length of Patagonia, pretty adventurous. Camping above the arctic circle, that’s an adventure for someone. I know it when I see it, you might say. Adventures are the stuff of story books. You’re not going to read a paperback about someone who checks into a seaside resort and doesn’t leave the sun lounger.
Adventure is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as something “unusual, exciting or [possibly] dangerous”. However, when you look up “adventure tourism” you’ll encounter a contradiction in terms. Adventure is something personal. Not usually shared by a coach-load of holidaymakers.
Adventure /ədˈventʃər/ [countable] an unusual, exciting or dangerous experience, journey or series of events.
As an experience that is supposed to be beyond the norm, do more people visiting a destination make it any less adventurous? The determination of the tourism industry to manage risk means that any hint of danger that remains seems ironic. Anyone visiting Antarctica 100 years ago could not be certain of returning. Today tourists come back with tote bags and penguin souvenirs.
Adventure travel is an elusive thing. You find yourself describing a moving target. Always chasing the new, looking for the next thing. Just when a place or activity finds itself in the spotlight the adventure travel trend has travelled on.
Despite the difficulty in describing it, adventure travel remains one of the fastest growing areas of travel. According to the Adventure Travel Trade Association the industry was worth over US $400bn last year, with its Goretex-clad clientele paying well above the odds for a trip of a lifetime. It’s no accident there are travel companies springing up across the globe with the promise of adventure.
Campfire stories: What is adventure travel? Photo / Thomas Bywater
What makes adventure travel an adventure?
Are you somewhere exciting? Are you setting out to do something new?
Stop! You may be on an adventure.
If you need help working out if the trip you’re taking is an adventure or another package holiday, you’re in the right place.
Adventure destinations
Off to deepest darkest Peru? Exciting but not necessarily an adventure. The destination is an important factor for adventure travel but it’s not all location, location, location. Going back to the definition of adventure, if you’re off somewhere “unusual and exciting” you could very well be an adventure tourist. Though these terms carry some subjectivity. If you’re booked somewhere inherently “dangerous” – featuring live volcanoes, sub-zero temperatures, or self-drive tuktuks – that also greatly increases the odds that you’re on an adventure.
However, a far better determiner of whether you are a budding adventure traveller is the next section: what you’ll do when you get there.
Adventure activities
Anyone reading an adventure travel brochure will be aware that it’s all about action.
Skiing in Siberia. Abseiling in Azerbaijan. Lama trekking along the Limpopo. All could be leading ads in Outdoor Adventure Magazine. Choosing the activity is almost as important as choosing the operator to go with. After all it’s them who will be taking you and your life in their hands. When working out which mountain guide, dirt buggy driver or fixer it’s worth checking their service history. If they’ve taken hundreds of other guests on similar trips, it’s a good sign. Better still is if you’ve had a guide recommended or met some of their previous guests.
Nasa astronaut Alan Shepherd famously said “a good landing is any landing you are able to walk away from.” Though you might want better bona fides from your bungy jumping outfit.
It pays to research your options, even when going with an off-the-peg group tour or adventure operator. Preplanning takes no authenticity away from your journey.
Adventure is intentional and enjoyable. Misadventure is accidental and chaotic. Being guided to the summit of Kilimanjairo is a thrill. Being stranded in the Serengeti, without a clue, is not.
This takes us nicely to the final step of our adventure FAQs.
What are the steps towards real adventure travel? Photo / Thomas Bywater
What’s the objective?
It’s a question you’ll hear around the camps of mountaineers and read in the climbing logs of grizzled alpinists.
Mountaineering – an objectively adventurous pursuit – is obsessed with objectives. General objectives. Objective hazards. Objectionably complex jargon. You don’t need to be scaling K2 via the Black Pyramid to benefit from having an objective.
In essence all that planning an objective asks is “what do you want to do?” and even “why do you want to do it?” Because often having an objective is what separates an adventure from a novelty holiday. Perhaps you’re hiking to the end of the Inca Trail to finally see Machu Picchu in person, two decades after an illustrated atlas moved you to ask “where’s that?” Maybe you’re off to find the island your great grandfather was lighthouse keeper. If there’s a purpose that’s moving you out of your comfort zone, it’s far more likely you’re heading out on an adventure.
An adventure is always a personal journey. That being said, your ego trip into the unknown is often an encroachment on someone else’s every day.
With tourists – sometimes literally – being helicoptered into a destination, some tours have little consequence or sometimes are directly harmful to the places being visited. The dangers of over tourism and over development have become talking points in the travel industry. As an activity that takes place in the remoter and more fragile parts of the globe, adventure travel has a danger of causing outsized impact.
By its nature adventure travel relies on local support and infrastructure far more than a trip to a resort, operated by some overseas hospitality conglomerate. Several tour outfitters have come up with ratings systems such as G-Adventures’ “Ripple Score” to try and show the proportion of a guest’s fee that stays in the local community. Your adventure objectives should always be secondary to the considerations of the locals. Sharing your objectives with the communities you are visiting is only fair. If you’re not there with their blessing, you’re an invasion.
Real adventure should have real benefits, not only for the traveller but the places and people they visit.
If you follow these steps you may be well on the way to your goal. In the end adventures are the holidays that you not only remember best, but other people want to hear about too. If you are asked follow up questions to “how was your holiday?”, chances are, you were on an adventure.
Antarctica is a once-in-a-lifetime destination that lends itself to outlandish activities – like sleeping out on the ice or even taking a mini-submarine ride.
There aren’t many opportunities to visit Antarctica, so when you’re offered the chance to camp on the ice of the seventh continent you say “yes”.
Even though I had only 90 minutes to get ready, pack, put on layers and eat my final meal – there would be no food allowed on to the pristine tent site – the last minute offer was not one I was going to turn down. It would be a camping trip unlike any other I’d been on.
Of the 335 passengers aboard Hurtigruten’s Frijdthof Nansen, only 30 had places on the Antarctic camping trip. As an excursion with very limited places, these were allocated by secret ballot. Paper invitations were slid under the cabin doors of the lucky few.
And I had not been lucky. At least not initially.
Practice camp: Setting up tents in the ship’s boardroom ahead of a night on Antarctica. Photo / Thomas Bywater Briefing visitors to Antarctica on the IAATO guidelines for the fragile polar ecosystem. Photo / Thomas Bywater
It did not stop me from turning up to the briefing, out of sheer curiosity. The remoteness and nature of Antarctica means any activity is inherently unpredictable. It’s the only place I’ve sailed to without even a rough itinerary. Due to the changeable weather conditions and unpredictable navigation, the following day’s activities would not be revealed until the night before, adding to the mystery.
In fact, the trip outline was less than a brief sketch. Following a two-day sail out of Ushuaia, Argentina, the schedule merely said: Five days, Antarctica.
We knew at least that some of us would have the opportunity to go kayaking and snowshoeing. These elective activities cost anywhere from $80 to $900 on top of the trip, and even after the ballots there was no guarantee the trips would take place. The much-anticipated “Amundsen Night” on the ice had been cancelled on the previous sailing by a blizzard which rolled into Paradise Bay with little warning.
Each activity had a comprehensive briefing en route to the ice. This was very strict. Failure to turn up meant visitors would not be allowed off the ship. Even passengers who had been cabin-bound with seasickness while crossing world’s roughest oceans were not offered a second chance. No matter how sickly they felt, every passenger turned up to the mandatory IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) briefing and biosecurity inspection. It was a prerequisite of being allowed out on the ice.
But for all the uncertainty, I had not been expecting a call through to my cabin.
“There has been a dropout,” came the voice of Paul, the ship’s expedition leader.
“It says here you were at the briefing. There’s a space if you’re up for it. We leave at 8.30.”
With little time to think, I was in an inflatable dinghy with the other happy campers and 15 red two-person tents. I was paired up Todd, a retired lecturer from Texas. Todd had several great anecdotes about “the backcountry”, which for him meant navigating bears and flash floods in Yellowstone and Yosemite.
Though none of us had ever spent a night on Antarctica – or, as it turns out, used a snow anchor.
The extent of Antarctic ‘night’ in the campsite. Photo / Thomas BywaterWhere do you go to the loo in Antarctica? Photo / Thomas BywaterCosy! Inside the Antarctic tent. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Putting up the tents on the ice was very different to the carpeted meeting room on the Nansen. There was plenty of practice putting the tents up before we could depart for shore, though this was only so helpful.
Before long the tents were up, two layers of ground insulation and thick down sleeping bags ready for the night.
As the temperatures plummeted to around -6C it was hard to tell in all our layers when sundown had happened. It hovered just below the horizon but darkness never came. It was only when the Nansen sailed around the cove and out of sight, it dawned that night had arrived on Antarctica.
We were left with the ethereal sound of breaking ice, wind blowing snow and the snores of two dozen cruise passengers.
What they don’t tell you about camping in Antarctica
1. Leave no poo behind!
The Antarctic Treaty says no waste can be left behind, not even human waste. We had to collect our poop and bring it back off the ice. They gave us buckets in a snow dugout.
2. No food allowed!
Cooking stoves and food are not allowed at on-shore camps because of the Antarctic Treaty regulations. We only got emergency rations.
3. It’s always twilight!
The tourism season is during the four summer months, so direct daylight is around 16 hours. At these southern latitudes, darkness never really falls.
4. It’s freezing at night!
During the summer, nighttime temperatures can drop below-6°C. In winter, it can get as cold as -20°C. But that’s still warm compared to the average winter temperature of -63°C, which was recorded at the South Pole.
8 Unbelievable Antarctic Activities
Snowshoe over Antarctica: Tourists wear giant plastic overshoes to reach places in deep snow.
Write from Port Lockroy’s penguin post office: The southernmost post office is manned by volunteers from the British Antarctic Heritage Trust and occasionally Kiwi conservators. They collect mail and sell stamps for postcards.
Participate in a polar citizen science project: In the world’s largest scientific reserve, citizen science initiatives like the Happy Whale project allow visitors to log cetacean sightings against a database.
Fat bike past the Orvinfjell mountains: Visitors to the Wolf Fang camp in Queen Maud Land are lent snow bikes with fat tires for activities.
Take a flight to the South Pole: Companies like ALE offer charter flights to the Geographic South Pole.
Take a polar plunge: Cruise ships offer dips in Antarctic waters, which are bracing at -2C.
Skin up, ski down Antarctica: Specialized expeditions offer ski touring on continental Antarctica, a bucket-list activity for snow enthusiasts.
Take a mini-sub ride: Mini-sub rides are available in Antarctica, but they require special equipment and clearance by biosecurity.
The National Parks movement, now 150 years old, is considered to have begun with the opening of Yellowstone National Park. Created by presidential proclamation in 1872, it was a novel idea that not all frontiers need tamed.
In the 1860s, writers, thinkers, and painters stumbled upon a profound truth while searching for wild places: the great outdoors was rapidly shrinking. There was suddenly a need to protect nature from our own love for it.
French philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville, American naturalist Ralph Waldo Emerson, and other thoughtful individuals with equally impressive names engaged in correspondence about the wonders they encountered during their travels. De Tocqueville expressed his desire to visit the rapidly vanishing wilderness of the Canadian frontier, urging his correspondents to hurry up before it was too late.
This sentiment echoes the current trend of natural catastrophising that drives cruises to the Antarctic and hikes through wilderness areas. We are familiar with the “see it, before it’s too late” school of climate tourism, which was quite radical back then.
Painter George Catlin, whose paintings of El Capitan in what would later become Yosemite and Yellowstone played a significant role in shaping the movement, called for assistance in preserving the great outdoors in California. He proposed that certain lands of immense value and fragility should be designated as public property and gifted to the people of California for the purpose of establishing a “State Park.”
Having gained President Abraham Lincoln’s approval, the bill was signed into law in May 1864.
The concept gained such popularity that a decade later, in March 1872, the first National Park, Yellowstone, was established. This move recognised the value of natural beauty spots to the entire nation. The idea was to preserve these natural wonders for future generations to enjoy, just as they had been enjoyed by those who visited before.
Wallace Stegner famously described it as “America’s best idea.” This concept quickly spread around the world, eventually reaching Aotearoa (New Zealand) in 1897.
New Zealand was one of the first countries to recognise the significance of natural places. Just two years after Canada established its first national park, Banff National Park, in 1887, New Zealand made the decision to designate Tongariro as a National Park. In collaboration with Ngāti Tuwharetoa, the Crown created a conservation area around the maunga (volcano), effectively halting development within the 25,000-hectare block.
Today, the Yellowstone plan has evolved into a global movement, with over 4,000 National Parks established in various countries. These parks attract hundreds of millions of visitors annually, and during the Covid-19 pandemic, some parks experienced record visitor numbers due to the pause in international travel.
For instance, in 2020, the US Great Smoky Mountains National Park welcomed a record 14 million visitors for the first time. In the UK, the Welsh National Park of Snowdonia experienced a significant influx of new visitors, surpassing the previous record by a factor of two.
When the lockdown restrictions were implemented, open public spaces became even more essential for people’s well-being.
While the world is captivated by the romanticised portrayal of 19th-century naturalists, particularly during the 150th-anniversary coverage of the US National Parks, it’s important to acknowledge that there are areas for improvement in the “Great Outdoors.”
Conservationism, a Victorian pastime akin to taxidermy and cartography, has been viewed as eccentric and challenging to assess, yet it has generally proven beneficial. Until now, it has been granted a pass.
This worldview emphasises the virtues of the natural world and the wickedness of the man-made one. Is there a possibility that the national park pioneers were merely misanthropes?
Furthermore, they did not give much consideration to the existing inhabitants of the land.
It wasn’t until Tongariro that any dialogue was initiated with native and traditional landowners of proposed “national park” land.
Considering that 130 years ago, the situation may have been less harmonious than the Department of Conservation and Ministry for Culture and Heritage’s account suggests, it’s worth noting that Te Whenua, encompassing land use, land ownership, even conservation land, is deeply entrenched in politics.
New Zealand was one of the pioneers in establishing a National Park system, and today, it covers approximately a third of its land with conservation reserves.
Recent controversies surrounding reserves like Te Urewera, which ceased to be a traditional National Park in 2014, have highlighted the intricate balance between conservation objectives and the principles of Waitangi.
The Department of Conservation (DoC) was established relatively recently, partly to serve a new definition of conservation.
The Conservation Act, which gave birth to the DoC three decades ago, was founded on the ideals of Waitangi and a “good faith” relationship between the Crown and Māori.
It’s undeniable that the 19th-century Anglo-American naturalists, who perceived nature as needing “saving,” recognised some flaws in their approach.
The Emersons and de Tocqueville shared a romanticised view of nature, perceiving it as an already perfect and fully formed entity. Their aesthetic preference was akin to Catlin’s paintings, which they envisioned adorning a mantelpiece. They never entertained the notion that nature could be improved upon, made more accessible for outdoor activities, or that indigenous communities had been diligently shaping and caring for the landscape for centuries before their arrival.
Fast forward to the United States, where signs of a potential shift in conservation practices emerge after a century of this mindset. This year, California officially returns guardianship of the Redwoods National Park to its traditional owners. A 211-hectare section of sequoia forest within the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park has been entrusted to the care of the InterTribal Sinkyone Wilderness Council, which represents the members of approximately 10 tribes that share the Sinkyone language.
While this arrangement may not fully align with the collaborative model prevalent in New Zealand, it has enabled the park to better reflect the land’s heritage before becoming a state park. The council has also bestowed upon the area a new name, “Tc’ih-Léh-Dûñ,” which holds significant meaning for Crista Ray, of Pomo and Sinkyone ancestry. She expressed pride in using this name, stating, “It conveys the sacredness of the place and reminds people of the existence of a language and a people who inhabited it long before this era.”
It is evident that national parks vary widely across different nations. While there is room for evolution in conservation practices, it is heartening to hope that, in 150 years, these parks will still be recognised and cherished by future generations.
Forget the Incas, Machu Picchu or the Andean condor – Peru prides itself on being home of the potato
Peru is famous for its potatoes, not just any potatoes, but thousands of different varieties! I lost count of the spuds I saw on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
When I visited Llachon, a small town on one of Peru’s many subsistence farms, I got to see a part of the country that most tourists don’t. About 99.8% of Peru’s farmland is family farms, and most of them only grow food for themselves. So, there are more smallholdings than potatoes! Some of these farms have been growing potatoes for over 7,000 years.
Peru is also known for giving us the tomato, quinoa, and cocaine. You’ll still see locals chewing coca leaves, which they call “chatting.” The leaves act as a mild stimulant to help people get through their daily chores.
Take aways
At 3800m above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake.
Peru claims to grow between 1200 and 4000 varieties of potato.
Peruvian food is on the rise with 48 Michelin starred restaurants and the world’s top rated restaurant .
When I went to the fields with a handful of coca leaves, llama fat, and a plastic bottle of red wine, I looked more like the cast of Midsommar than potato farmers on their way to work.
The shores of Lake Titicaca and the islands of Amantani and Taquille had a Mediterranean feel, looking out towards Bolivia. But when you tried to walk up a flight of stairs, you were almost floored by how much exercise it was! At 3,800 meters, we were about the same height as Aoraki Mt Cook.
In the distance, you could see floating reed houses of the indigenous Uros people. Beyond that, Bolivia.
The wine and coca leaves weren’t for us, but for the Apu mountain spirits and Macha Papa. I made a small parcel of three leaves, representing the “three realms, past present, and future,” and joined it to the pile facing the mountains.
When I burned the leaves with the red wine, it made thick, white smoke.
Our guide, Jose Antonio, told us that if the smoke goes straight up, it’s a good sign for a bountiful harvest. We all made a wish on the leaves, and it seems like someone really wanted lots of potatoes!
What’s it like to visit a homestay in Peru’s Altiplano plains?
Our rural homestay in Llachon was a stark contrast to the bustling hotels we’d been staying in throughout Peru. The eight-hour drive from Cusco was a world away from the touristy scene.
As we pulled up to our hosts’ colorful shawl-covered house, we were greeted by the locals carrying kantuta wreaths, Peru’s national flower. Turns out, those shawls were more than just decorations; they were cleverly designed to hold our luggage.
Our host, Magdelena, had arranged our stay through Intrepid, but it felt like she had the short end of the stick. Two Kiwis, with no Spanish between us, were a challenge. Despite our language barrier, Magdelena was incredibly welcoming. She accepted our gift of Chuta, a sweet bread from Cusco, and her daughter, Shami, was instantly smitten with the promise of cake.
Shami was a few years older than the other kids in the house, who worked with Magdelena’s husband, Hernan. We only met one of her other daughters, Karin, who had just finished school and was helping out on the family farm. The conversation was a bit awkward at first, but we managed to break the ice by searching for a signal and using Google Translate.
I finally found a topic that sparked some interest. “Por la trabajo?” I asked, thinking I was asking about the work in Llachon. Magdelena’s response, a playful smile, made me curious.
A few minutes later, we were holding makeshift spades and homemade hoes, being led up the hill behind the house. We were put to work in a small potato patch, with two grey donkeys keeping watch. It was a fun and unexpected experience, and we made some great memories together.
Juliaca, a bustling frontier town near the coast of Lake Titicaca, seemed like a rural paradise after driving through it. With its thick wetlands and waterways connecting to a lake 50 times the size of Liechtenstein, it’s no wonder it’s known for being a porous border for smuggling. The towns near Puno and Juliaca reportedly had a thriving black market. Our guides from Cusco told us it was a great place to buy tax-free electronics straight from Bolivia, and even the local dress was influenced by smuggling traditions.
In Llachon and the islands of Amantani and Taquile, women wear heavy skirts with many hems. They have two or three skirts for everyday work and almost 20 during high fiesta. Or, when they’re smuggling money and other contraband to and from the far shore of Titicaca.
The bright dresses of the fieldworkers seemed impractical. These skirts and embroidered waistcoats in various shades of fushia pink, mustard, and tumeric. Despite using hard-wearing colored polyester fabrics, they looked almost unchanged from when Simon Bolivar arrived to drive out the Spanish 200 years ago. It was hard to believe it wasn’t for tourists.
To show off their outfits, our hosts challenged our group to a game of volleyball. The visiting team of Canadians, Australians, and Kiwis were quickly beaten: Home 21 – Tourists 10.
It would be easy to blame the altitude, but it was a convincing defeat.
Exhausted from travel and honest work harvesting potatoes, the sleeping arrangements in the village were basic but more than enough. Magdalena’s house had a couple of guest rooms for visitors. Like many locals, they supplement their farm by providing simple accommodation. With bed frames made of bricks and thick rolls of woollen blankets, it was basic but more than adequate.
I drifted off to the sound of distant donkeys, counting spuds to sleep.
Carrying bags to a water taxi on Lake Titicaca, Peru. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Peru’s rising culinary stars and arrival in the Michelin guides
Peru is buzzing with pride in its national cuisine.
“Guess what? The best restaurant in the world is in Peru!” Peruvians, especially tour guides, are eager to tell tourists. Even folks in the highlands near Cusco, who are usually wary of anything from Lima, have embraced Peru’s claim to the title of the world’s most exciting culinary scene.
Last year, restaurant Central shocked the global food scene by claiming the top spot in The 50 Best Restaurants in the World. Thanks to chef Virgilio Martinez, there’s a new craze for ceviche, loche squash, and uchucuta pepper salsa.
Guinea pig ficasse is still a bit of a no-go.
Peru has done a great job of showing the world the deliciousness of their food. Their 12 or 14-course tasting menu claims to cover the whole country, from the Pacific Ocean to the high peaks of the Andes. It’s around $697.51 per person, which is more than double the average monthly income of a family in the central Andes.
With a sister restaurant Mil in Cusco, which specializes in food grown in the high Andes, some ingredients come from the same region as our homestays. But the restaurant seems to be in a different place from the potato farms.
Some people think it’s a bit strange to have Michelin-style fine dining using food that’s grown locally. But there are plenty of restaurants in Cusco and Lima that try to give everyone a fair chance to enjoy good food, inspired by places like Central. And it’s more affordable for people who are on a budget.
Restaurants like Nuna Raymi, on Cusco’s calle Triunfo.
“The main goal of this restaurant is to support our local farmers,” says chef Eric as he serves appetizers made from four different kinds of heritage potatoes. Yes, more potatoes! Also, a tomato that has a strong, sour medicinal flavor. Something Kiwis might recognize as similar to a feijoa.
Joining us at the table to show Eric’s point is farmer Julio Cruz from Lares, one of the 13 provinces of Cusco from which the restaurant gets its ingredients.
The Azul or ‘blue’ potatoes were the star of the show. Despite being purple, they were proudly displayed to show that potatoes weren’t just boring, beige carbs. To add some spice, two delicious pepper sauces were served. Uchacuta, which means ‘ground chillies’ in Quechua, our local language, was a favorite condiment. There was also a creamier orange Aji sauce.
Eric explained that ‘Ucha’ refers to any kind of chilli in Quechua. The Aji chilli sauce comes from the Spanish word.
The meal was served with charred Palo Santo wood. The incense stick, burned with a thin white smoke, added to the aroma. Eric said it was used to ‘purify the meal’.
Potatoes are a staple food in Peru, from simple tables in the highlands to Michelin-starred restaurants in central Lima. They’re treated with great respect.
DETAILS: LLACHON AND TITICACA
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Lima with Latam with one stopover in Santiago, Chile. Transport to the village of Lllachon and Titicaca was part of Intrepid Travel’s Classic Peru itinerary.
Researchers at Purdue University have come up with a theory about how much money you need to be happy, and it’s based on where you live.
They found that New Zealand is the seventh most expensive place to be happy. To be really happy in Aotearoa, you need to make at least $193,727 a year (or $114,597 in US dollars). That’s a lot of money! The average household income in 2022 was around $117,126, so happiness is still out of reach for most people.
Key notes
The study asked 1.7 million to reveal household income and happiness.
Brisbane and Sydney are both in the top 10 most expensive cities for happiness.
Bucaramanga, Colombia, is the world’s most budget-friendly city for happiness.
Purdue University looked at how much money you make and how happy you are. They studied over 1.7 million people from all over the world and found that there’s a point where more money doesn’t make you happier. Now, a new study using Purdue University’s data has created a list of the cheapest and most expensive places to be happy. S Money, a currency exchange company, calculated the cost of happiness in US dollars for over 500 cities in 164 countries. They found that Australia is the third most expensive place in the world to be happy. Brisbane and Sydney are both in the top 10 most expensive cities for joy. The average price of true happiness in Australia is $205,830. In Brisbane, it’s even more expensive, with the average price of happiness being $225,511. But don’t worry, there are still places where you can be happy without breaking the bank. Sierra Leone is the cheapest country in the world to be happy, with life fulfilment being valued at just $14,711 a year. Suriname is second cheapest, with life fulfilment being valued at $17,424, and Madagascar is third cheapest, with life fulfilment being valued at $19,293.
While happiness generally costs more in cities than in rural areas, there are some surprisingly affordable cities for those seeking joy.
In Bucaramanga, Colombia, you can enjoy a year of happiness for just $16,900. With a population of 581,000, it’s the world’s most budget-friendly city for happiness.
On the other hand, Auckland, New Zealand, was found to be the most expensive city for happiness, costing $207,000 per year and ranking 20th globally. In contrast, Christchurch, the cheapest city in New Zealand, offers contentment at a more reasonable $180,000 per year.
While happiness is closely linked to the cost of living, it can also be influenced by the amount needed to protect oneself from negative emotions.
Interestingly, the Islamic Republic of Iran was found to be the most expensive country to live in the world, with Iranians valuing happiness at $239,700. Meanwhile, the average household income in Iran is $3,340 in cities and $1,973 in rural areas, according to the Statistical Center of Iran.
While money can’t buy happiness, it can certainly help you plan a fun vacation
According to Harvard’s Department of Psychology, the relationship between money and happiness is surprisingly weak. A study titled “If money doesn’t bring you happiness, you aren’t spending it right” suggests that people often spend more money than they actually enjoy.
However, vacations were identified as a top investment for happiness-seekers. Professor Daniel T. Gilbert noted that the anticipation of traveling can often be more enjoyable than the actual holiday itself.
In fact, a study conducted in 1997 found that people viewed vacations in a more positive light before the experience than during it. This suggests that anticipation can sometimes provide more pleasure than consumption simply because it’s not tainted by reality.
Interestingly, it was also found that taking a lifetime of small trips can lead to greater happiness than saving up for one or two big bucket-list items.
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